a housewife takes aim - wall image from the Imperial War Museum, London, Ministry of Food exhibition
TOPICS
Lilith is cooking with the stars – this week : Taurus
Anzac day war and food special : internees, soldiers’ rations, rationing in Australia and UK, Napoleon’s favourite battle snack, spam sushi, victory gardens, expensive cooks and the downfall of the Roman Empire
GUEST : Lilith, belly astrogourmet and hula queen
GUEST RECIPE : by Lilith
BEEF WELLINGTON WITH MADEIRA AND BLACK TRUFFLE JUS
This special occasion dish was named for Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of
Wellington, created to satisfy his love of beef, truffles, mushrooms,
Madeira wine, and pâté – its time consuming, but most of it can be prepared
in advance.
INGREDIENTS to serve 8
1.35 kg of beef tenderloin fillet
2 tablespoons olive oil
30g unsalted butter
175g foie gras or whatever pate
you can afford
1 beaten egg
450g puff pastry
Mushroom Stuffing
55g unsalted butter
small onion, finely chopped
220g flat black mushrooms,
finely chopped
3 tablespoons heavy double cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Madeira and truffle jus
3/4 cup Madeira wine – you can use red if that’s what
you have
3/4 cup beef stock, knob of unsalted butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped black truffles (optional)
watercress to garnish
METHOD
First the stuffing: Heat butter in a frying pan, and saute chopped onion a
few minutes till soft and golden. Add chopped mushrooms and sauté till
moisture evaporates. Add cream, season with salt and fresh black pepper,
cook over a low heat till reduced to a thick pureé. Remove from heat, mix
in chopped parsley, allow to cool and refrigerate till needed.
Then the beef: Heat olive oil and butter in a large pan. Season beef with
salt and black pepper, brown on all sides over a high heat for a few
minutes. Remove from pan and let it cool, reserving any juices. On a
floured surface, roll out the puff pastry 3mm thick to an oblong big enough
to fit your piece of beef. Spread the pâté across centre of the pastry,
same width as the beef. Spread the mushroom stuffing over the pâté.
Place the beef on top of the stuffing and gently settle it into the mix. Cut
away the middle of the pastry ends and brush all edges with beaten egg.
Carefully fold the pastry up to completely envelope the beef, tucking in the
ends and very carefully turn the parcel over onto a large buttered baking
tray. With a sharp knife make a few small incisions in the pastry, decorate
the top with pastry leaves cut out of the leftovers and refrigerate
uncovered for half an hour.
Preheat the oven to 450F/230C/gas mark 8. Brush wellington all over with
beaten egg and bake at high heat for 10 minutes. Then turn it down to
375F/190C/gas mark 5 for a further 20-25 minutes till pastry¹s golden brown.
Remove from the oven and let it rest uncovered for 10 minutes.
While its baking, do the jus. Simmer reserved juices from the beef pan with
the wine and beef stock till reduced by half. Add finely chopped truffles
(if using them), and simmer another 2 minutes. Take pan off the heat, add a
knob of butter, let it melt to give a shine to the sauce and season to
taste.
TO SERVE: Cut wellington into thick slices and arrange on warm plates. Pour
over some Jus, garnish with fresh watercress.
This is a very rich complex recipe, so keep accompaniments simple: new
potatoes, green beans, an orange and watercress salad.
If this all sounds a bit too gouty, our local chef Nadine Abensur has a
gorgeous recipe for Mushroom Wellington which I personally prefer.
COOKING WITH TAURUS
Taurans, the earthiest earth sign, are often described as touchy, feely,
hungry and horny and it’s true they engage with life through their senses.
This is not the sign of dieting, lean cuisine, small portions or fussy
little canapes. Taurans like big servings, especially smorgasbords where
they can graze at leisure and heap up their plates with their favorite nosh:
which tends to be solid, satisfying and usually fleshy. Apologies to any
Tauran vegetarians out there, but a salad just won’t cut it for these hearty
eaters who love nothing better than a no-nonsense roast followed by a good
pud all washed down with a full-bodied red.
Tauran favourites may include the Bullshot – beef consomme, tabasco, lemon juice, ice and vodka from the freezer, and robust, uncomplicated flavours like steak and kidney pie with garlic mash,roast beef with carrot and parsnip puree,and mixed grills with crumbed brains and spicy sausages.
SOME TAURUS CHEFS
Matt Moran of ARIA, one of Sydney’s premier restaurants overlooking the Opera House a country boy from Tamworth who was told by a teacher he was a loser who’d never amount to anything, Matt left school at 15 to become an apprentice chef. A true Tauran, he describes his kitchen style as hands on.
Gary Rhodes, English celebrity chef who became famous reviving
British classics like braised oxtails, bread and butter pudding and faggots
– meatballs made from leftovers.
these are faggots - photo taken by sister T at the Brixton farmers market, London
Anthony Worral-Thompson, whose godfather was Richard Burton, had his recipe for Snickers Pie nominated by an independent
food watchdog as one of the most unhealthy recipes ever invented – being
Snickers bars, marscapone, sugar and eggs in puff pastry, and weighing in at
1,250 calories a slice, its no mystery why the ever-charming Gordon Ramsay
once called Worral the Teletubby chef. [in Adelaide right now for Taste Australia]
Epitomizing Taurans’ love of the good life, the Dean of American Cuisine
James Beard was a great big man of large appetites – an endearing teacher
who loved people, loved gossip, loved food and loved a good time.
Bedridden with malaria at the age of three, he grew to love the food prepared by his mother and their Chinese cook, resulting in a life time mission to defend good cooking with fresh
ingredients against, quoting James: the assault of the Jell-O-mold and
domestic scientists. Expelled from college for being gay, Beard started his
own gourmet catering business and became star of the first American TV
cooking show titled, with typical Tauran subtlety: I Love To Eat. His legacy
lives on in twenty books, the Citymeals On Wheels he founded to feed New
York’s home-bound elderly and The James Beard Foundation which provides
scholarships, champions American fine dining and honours industry
professionals with annual awards for best chefs, restaurants, journalists
and cookbook authors.
Alice Louise Waters is another American restaurateur whose edible education
ideas have been introduced into the Berkeley school system to try and combat
the current crisis in childhood obesity. Waters advocates seasonal local
produce, believing the international shipment of mass-produced food harms
the environment and gives consumers an inferior product.
In case I make them sound too boofy, Taurans are ruled by Venus so they’re
lovers of beauty and Taurus wild boy of art Salvador Dali published the
extraordinary cookbook Les Diners de Gala a sumptuously illustrated
gastro-aethetic feast for eyes, mind and palate featuring exotic recipes for
frogs, snails and aphrodisiacs things like ” Pierced Heart” and “Ox Snouts
in Pastry Shells” – all lavish, fattening and expensive, though to be fair
he does kick off with the Tauran warning: “Do not look for dietetic formulas
here.” It’s a collector’s item now, but I once owned it and remember
attempting the Eels in Tequila recipe (what was I thinking).
Lilith
FROM THE BELLY LAB :
CHICKEN MARENGO
adapted from the many versions of this historical recipe by sister Tess
Napoleon definitely won the battle of Marengo, a place in Italy near my grandmother’s hometown of Alessandria in southern Piemonte, Italy. He beat the Austrian army and then he was hungry, so he ate a chicken dish which is said to have become a great favourite of his because either it reminded him of the victory, or he was like a sportsperson who always wears the lucky underpants on the day of a big match – it was his lucky dish.
He was separated from his food wagons (for a great fictional account of being Nap’s cook, read Jeannette Winterson’s “The Passion”), and either his French chef stole some chickens and a few bits and pieces to rustle up a quick meal (say the French texts), or they went to a simple local restaurant and ordered the cook to snap to it (say many Italian versions). The only thing that is definitely in chicken Marengo is chicken – there may also be fried eggs, mushrooms, freshwater prawns, croutons, brandy, tomatoes, wine – or not. I have translated and adapted one of the simplest versions, in an Italian cookbook that is well over 100 years old, by Pellegrino Artusi, called “Science in the Kitchen and the art of eating well”.
for 4 people (or 2 x 2)
1 small young free-range chicken, about 1kg or the smallest you can find – I used a size 13, which is a 1.3 Kg chook
flour
100 mL/1 glass white wine
flat leaf parsley, chopped, about 1/2 cup
stock (chicken or veg)
stale good bread, sliced
1 lemon
butter, olive oil
salt, pepper, nutmeg
opt. – 2-3 mushrooms per person
Rinse, dry and cut the chicken into large pieces, about 8-12 depending on size. Dust with flour.
Lightly brown in a little oil and butter, a few pieces at a time, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg as you go. When all the chicken pieces are browned, put them together and add the wine, when it is absorbed add 1-2 cups of stock and cover to finish cooking over a gentle heat. If you find that you’ve added too much stock, just leave the cover off towards the end.
Just before serving, brush the mushrooms with olive oil and cook in a dry pan. Keep warm while you add a little more oil to the pan to toast the slices of bread.
Add the parsley to the chicken, and lemon juice to taste, stir and turn the heat off.
Serve surrounded by mushrooms and toast.
You could go the full I-just-conquered-another-great-big-piece-of-the-map and fry an egg each in oil, steam a few prawns in the white wine, and serve those too.
I tried making a thin plain omelette and serving it cut in strips with the chicken. It was ok, but it didn’t really add anything. But the chook/toast/mushroom combo was delicious and very simple to make.
We were only two eating this, so the next day I added fresh peeled, seeded, chopped tomatoes to the chicken while it was re-heating, as most recipes for chicken Marengo include tomato. It was ok, but there are much better recipes for tomatoey chicken around, and probably not what Napoleon ate, as it took a long time for tomatoes to conquer Europe after they came from America.
EDIBLE QUOTE
Today’s quote is by the Roman historian Livy, he was writing about Roman soldiers in the days when Romans were rough and tough and simple people, going off to conquer the Greeks and other softer and more civilised people in Asia, and coming home with souvenirs and bad habits
“The beginnings of foreign luxury were brought to Rome by the army of Asia. .. Harp girls and other festive amusements became features of dinner parties. The feasts themselves began to be arranged with greater meticulousness and expense. The cook,cheapest and most despised of slaves in our fore father’s times, increased in price. His work, once seen as servile, was now considered an Art. These, scarcely noticed by contemporaries, were the seeds of corruption” Livy writing about a time around 200 bc – and all downhill from there
THE MINISTRY OF FOOD EXHIBITION AT THE IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM, LONDON
In the kitchen a housewife checks the size of a slice of bread against a chart supplied by the Wartime Social Survey, a government fact-finding organisation set up in April 1940. There was no bread rationing during the war, but it had to be introduced on 21st July 1946. It remained in force for exactly two years. © Imperial War Museum
I’ve got a sticker that says “make chocolate not war” on the car. Us bellysisters are peace loving, sybaritic souls. So I don’t normally visit museums dedicated to guns and co. But I thoroughly enjoyed the current exhibition at the IWM. It’s quite amazing how many of the preoccupations of wartime Britain are again very topical.
We Want Your Kitchen Waste, John M Gilroy, IWM PST 14742 © Imperial War Museum
From eat more veggies to grow your own, to avoiding food that needs long range transport (because of German subs not food miles), to recycling and using underused land for small scale food production. The reasons may be different, but the messages are the same. And often these days we are told to look to wartime methods and values to avoid environmental catastrophy, or just to have access to better, healthier food. The first major Slow Food event in San Francisco last year, for example, included a temporary but very lush “Victory Garden” in the centre of the city.
So it makes sense to go along and see how the British Government, and people, very successfully not only increased domestic food production war, but ended up with a healthier, better fed population – in the middle of a war!
Grow Your Own Food, Abram Games, 1942, IWM PST 2893 © Imperial War Museum
There are propaganda videos, songs and radio programs, lots of posters and
Use Spades Not Ships Grow Your Own Food and Supply Your Own Cookhouse, Abram Games, IWM PST 2916 © Imperial War Museum
photos, and recreations of a kitchen, shop and greenhouse. Design students would get a lot out of it too, such great posters they used to do.
And all sorts of media were used to communicate techniques and tips on all sorts of subjects from nutrition to cooking methods to gardening.
I particularly like this way of telling a good bug from a bad bug.
And while most of us are probably aware that rationing existed, this show explains some of the less obvious aspects.
Rationing was meant to ensure that both rich and poor had access to scarce food, and that as much as possible was left for the troops. There was a big supply web between Britain and us colonials. Many merchant sailors died transporting food, and many people in Australia endured rationing to supply food to Britain and the various armed forces.
IWM cafe food
The one thing that is really hard to take is the supposed recreation of wartime cooking in the Museum cafe. One of the sponsors is responsible for this, and the whole museum smells pretty unappetising. As one of the people serving it up said to me : “I think they had better food during the war”.
¨Food Chart Eat Something From Each Group Every Day, © Imperial War Museum In 1944, the Ministry of Food Public Relations Division spent £600,000 on posters and other forms of publicity.
However, see this wartime nutrition chart – we are all familiar with eating from all the food groups. If you could get hold of them, you could follow this dietary advice by eating just butter, cheese, and potatoes. Ahh, those were the days. But then you could work it all off digging and dancing.
If you can’t get to London, check out the videos available on the net – I posted a list below.
Carrots Keep You Healthy and Help You See in the Blackout, IWM PST 6015 © Imperial War Museum
LINKS :
The Kitchen Sisters story on US public radio, about American Japanese internees during WW2 – anyone with 1/16th of Japanese blood – and the odd new foods they learned to love, like spam – recipes and audio, including that fab spam sushi recipe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_aldlRKzvQ&feature=related – the BBC US army ration story
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKyO84pYy0c&feature=related – this one is silent, so not in the radio show, but lovely historical images of soldiers with those ever-present tins!
http://www.6thcorpsmusic.us/ – lots more music like the tracks I played on the show, thanks to the US IV Army Corps Combat Engineers
give us this day – the full version of the Australian rationing ad – this website is a wonderful archive of Australian film
http://london.iwm.org.uk/server/show/conEvent.3167 – the Ministry of Food exhibition at the Imperial War Museum, London
Dig for Victory ad
Dig For Victory, 1942, IWM PST 0059 © Imperial War Museum The Dig For Victory campaign was launched in October 1939 by the Minister of Agriculture Sir Reginald Dorman-Smith.
this is the one I call “Mrs White sees the Minister” – love a talking chicken!
and a couple of rationing films that I didn’t have time to play:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcaSJCtmt7c&feature=related – the announcement of rationing in the UK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2evv45stEHw&feature=related – 2 cooks and a cabbage
but there are so many more great wartime clips on youtube! we just don’t do propaganda like we used to. If you follow the links above you will find many more, including a whole heap of soldiers just opening up and heating army rations, to show exactly what they look like – no words usually, just preserved food bubbling away on camp stoves – very odd.
and for a dark, distopian and disturbingly likely future of rationing, National Meat loaf and veggie gardens, read Fay Weldon’s 2009 novel “Chalcot Crescent”
